We arrived in Lourdes on time, it was hot, but the hotel was downhill, so we dragged our very loud suitcases down the streets to the Astoria Vatican. Another 3 star hotel, we checked in, they were surprised to find I was a female, they had seen my name and assumed I was male, and put us in a twin room. They found us a double bed opposite Tom's room and we made our way up to it. The room was hot, hot, hot, but we put the air conditioner on and it worked - yahooooo. However, every minute or so it growled at us - boooooo! We tried everything, but were unable to stop it growling at us - it even growled at us when we turned it off! Tom's room, of course was perfect, cold, air-conditioning with no growling and a view of the castle. Lucky boy!
We had showers and then headed out for a panaché on the Pont Vieux - we are now under the impression that every town has a Pont Vieux. Everywhere we looked there were monks, nuns and lots of people dressed in white with lanyards / neckerchiefs etc etc. And oh my word the shops were insane. We are talking mass consumerism, in every shop you could buy 100 different models of Mary - plastic ones, wooden ones, glass ones, neon ones, large ones, small ones and so on. Also you could buy water bottles in the shape of Mary, for filling with holy water, a 100 or so different medals of saints, fridge magnets galore, towels, tea towels, t-shirts, mugs, shot glasses, towels, sweets, chocolates etc etc all with Mary.
So we had to look up the story of the place. Back in 1858, a peasant girl, Bernadette, saw an apparition of Mary in a cave. She told her parents, they beat her and told her not to go back. She went back and saw another apparition of Mary, and again and again. In one apparition, Mary told her to dig in the mud to find water, she did so, and that is the source of the holy water. In the end her parents and priests believed her - she saw Mary 8 times. An artist was asked to make an image according to the apparitions Bernadette saw, apparently Bernadette was unhappy with it as the Mary she saw was very young the and the artist made her much older. However, that image has stuck and that is what the souvineer shops all sell now. Bernadette was made a saint.
Catholics from around the world make a pilgrimage to the cave and church which is on top of the cave and take part in a candlelight parade in the evening. Lots of ill people come to be blessed and drink the holy water.
We felt like were in Vegas for Catholics, not being at all religious, it was hard to take it seriously, as it was so over the top, but we did our best to keep our faces straight at the right times.
We had a good look around some of the shops, Matt couldn't help himself and bought a Mary water bottle for holy water. He also found me a patch which I was very happy about as it seems Catholics like tat but don't like proper tourist souviners such as patches! We found ourselves in the Basilica of Notre Dame and after observing others, figured it would be ok to fill some bottles up with the holy water. We were really surprised that 1) you could just walk in without any security, 2) it was free, 3) you could wander freely anywhere. It was a big place.
By now it was tea time, so we went looking for tea and found it just outside the Basilica, sausage and frites for Matt, steak and frites for Tom and pork chop and frites for me - very French, very busy and unfortunately a little average. The mass tourism here, has brought the prices down, but not driven quality up it seems.
We then headed back to the Basilica for the 9pm torchlight procession. Once again, it was open to anyone, and no-one was checked, all were welcome and there was a lovely atmosphere of peace about the place. There were chariots galore with ill and old people in them, and then literally 1000s of pilgrims, with their banners etc (saw one from Ampleforth) who walked around the huge square, whilst priest prayed in French, English, Spanish and Italian. There were people singing Ava Maria etc etc. As I said it was quite peaceful but after an hour we decided to call it a day and headed back to the hotel. We were just about to go to sleep when we heard some big bangs, and again. Looked out the window - fireworks. It is the 14th of July - Bastille Day. Carine had told me that fireworks weren't allowed this year - Lourdes hadn't got the memo and we were treated to 25 minutes of really good fireworks. Luckily Tom's bedroom had a really good view of them.
Next day it was boiling - it got up to 38 degrees, however, we had discovered that there was a really good cave system nearby and decided it would be good to visit. We had tickets booked for 1.30, so we decided to head to the castle in the middle of the town for the morning. We got there easily, but stupidly decided to walk up the stairs to the top rather than take the lift, big mistake, in 5 mins time we were all sweating profusely! Oh hum, we had a good explore around the castle - all the usual things - kitchen, portcullis, oil holes, herb garden, taxidermy animals - all of which were looking very grumpy, a tower and great views of Lourdes and the mountains around (some of which still had snow on them).
We walked back to the hotel and got ready for the caves, first stop lunch, we decided on icecream - which was served to us in the formation of a rose - never had that before, nice little touch. We then fired up Uber to get a taxi to the caves, booked it, then it was cancelled. Tried again, no joy. The caves were a good 10 miles from Lourdes, so no chance we could walk it, and it was boiling. We decided to walk to the train station and see if we could get a taxi from there. They quoted us €50 - ouch! Tried again with Uber, no joy, so we had to go with the other taxi. So, it was a lovely trip out of Lourdes, very picturesque and we got to the caves in air conditioned bliss.
Not sure how to describe the caves, they were amazing, and I mean AMAZING. They were massive, and just full of formations - stalactites, stalagmites and pillars everywhere, you looked: big ones, small ones, MASSIVE ones etc, and it went on and on. They had only named a couple of the formations because there were so many of them. It was so full on that it just became normal to walk into a cavern and find it full of amazing formations. It made Ingleborough and White Scarr Caves just look rubbish. Not sure any of us could go to them again now and be impressed! Also, our guide was amazing, we had an audio translator device so we could hear commentary in English, but he was also fluent in English and funny too. Also he was dressed as a typical French as you could get - a white shirt, blue suit type thing and a black beret.
After walking for about an hour through the caves we came to a dragon boat. 'Welcome to the White Star Line' our guide said as we got on (best line of the tour). We sailed across a couple of flooded caverns and then carried on our way through tunnels until we came across a little train. We all got on and then we had a high energy, fast ride back to the surface, bells clanging, lights flashing etc, great fun. We were a little bit sad it was over, the temperature inside the cave was 14 degrees, it was 38 outside, we very much enjoyed being cool for an hour and a half.
We had a lovely tart each and then luckily we managed to get an uber taxi back (think our problem was that we were trying to get an uber taxi during lunch time which on reflection, probably wasn't a great idea!) Our driver was from Chechnya - and we spoke to him in a strange combination of French and English.
We got back to Lourdes, had a rest and than headed back out in the heat for tea, ended up in a pizza restaurant which was about 40+ degrees but the pizza was good. We then headed back to the hotel to watch France bow out of the world cup.

































