Beppu

Ridiculous lunch

Today we went for a day trip to Beppu.  Beppu produces the second largest amount of natural hot spring water in the world (number 1 being Yellowstone).  Of the 27,000 or so hot spring vents in Japan, more than 3,000 are in Beppu.  Unfortunately, it isn't on a Shinkansen line, so we had to slum it in the Sonic (a limited express train which has seats with Mickey Mouse ear-shaped head rests).  We made it in one piece (you'll be glad to hear) and walked into town in search of food.  We couldn't find any restaurants initially (very strange) but then found a shopping centre with a bakery in it so decided to eat there.  Matt ended up going for the biggest bun on display - a huge sausage in a roll thing.  Must have been 2 feet long. Greedy thing!!!!! We were also nabbed by a couple of old ladies while in the bakery. Tom got kawaii-ed as usual, and Matt had a good chat with them - they were very friendly.

We then wandered back to the railway station to get a bus to Kannawa - which is where lots of the hot spring resorts are.  I think we got the bus which went the most circuitous route possible, it took an absolute age to get there, but we did in the end.  

Washing before getting in the onsen

We actually ended up in the same spa that we visited 10 years ago: Hyotan Onsen.  We had good memories of it, so why not.  Also we can rent a lovely public bath there for very little money (we guess that competition is so fierce here, prices are kept down).  So, that is what we did.  All public onsens are segregated (with good reason, as you are naked in them) but it means we don't get any family onsen time.  Anyway, here a private onsen for an hour was £13, which was very reasonable.  We got an outdoor one for that too which is always a bonus.  We did the usual strip down and wash routine and then relaxed in the hot water, and it was hot (although not quite as hot as yesterday's foot bath, which was insanely hot!)  We also had a one man steam room which was very very hot and smelt of sulfur but was good for getting a good sweat on!

And relax

We enjoyed our time together, but in the end it was just too hot, and we were turning red, getting dizzy and thirsty so we got out and dressed and went in search of cold drinks.  Once refreshed, we decided to head into the public baths here as they have 8 different pools (on both sides - Matt checked after my earlier rant!) including one with waterfalls which you can stand under and be massaged by.

So, in we went again - this time Matt took Tom so I had time to myself.  Very nice it was too.  As I entered, a coach load of old Japanese ladies were leaving, so although the changing rooms were heaving, the baths were quite empty.  I had another wash and then spent some time being attacked by the waterfalls - they were harsh but nice, certainly shouldn't be complaining of a stiff neck tonight. 

I then hopped into the other pools - including a huge outdoor one set in rocks with a massive waterfall coming down.  It was very tranquil, and very relaxing.  As usual, I was the only white woman there (I don't think I have ever been in an onsen and not been the only white woman).  There were plenty of foreigners in Beppu, I guess they are more into visiting the sights rather than enjoying the hot water.

I met up with Matt and Tom in the communal area (after being towelled down by a Japanese lady who wanted to interact with me and help me - my hair was dripping water down my back and she was worried I would get my clothes wet if I didn't towel myself down properly!).  We then decided to find a couple of the 'Hells of Beppu'.  Apparently there are 8 hells in all - basically areas where the water is bubbling out of the ground in an interesting way / colour etc.

Lots of crocs

The first one we visited was home to some crocodiles.  We were expecting one or two crocodiles, so were quite surprised to find a tank with about 30 big ones in as well as other tanks with many more.  They aren't native to the area / Japan, but apparently the hot water agrees with them and they live long lives there. A second hell was just down the road - this time it was milky hot water coming out of the ground.  It all reminded me of Rotoroa in New Zealand - I wouldn't be surprised if the places are twinned, as it was so so similar.

At "Demon Mountain Hell"

As we were floppy and tired from our onsen we decided to head back to the station and get the train home.  We were expecting another long bus trip, but it was less than half the time of the previous one, which meant we got to the station in good time to pick up a doughnut each from Mr Donut to eat on the train home (in an attempt to revive ourselves).  It was an uneventful and peaceful trip home - I very nearly fell asleep.  Once back at Hakata, we had a tempura meal for dinner (my tummy seems to be behaving itself now) and then we walked back home.  It was much colder this evening than previous evenings, we may be getting colder weather coming our way.