We had the worst night's sleep last night. Matt and I went to bed at about 10.30pm tired, and just as we were about to fall asleep Tom got us up because he was too hot (no air conditioning here - we are too far north, but it is warm and doesn't seem to cool down at night). Anyway, we got him sorted, but that was it -we were tossing and turning for hours. In the end Matt got up to do a WASA and we ended up falling asleep around 4am! Of course, then we didn't wake up until 10am again. Not sure what we can do to change our pattern, we (strangely) don't seem to be sleepy during the day and haven't got anywhere that horrible head butting motion you sometimes get with jet lag, but we certainly aren't sleeping at the right times.
So, a late morning start today - it wasn't a problem. We were greeted by another rainy. We are feeling a little upset at the weather as when we checked from the UK, the forecast said clear and sunny. Matt got speaking to an old woman this morning, who confirmed that this weather is very unusual for this time of year. Humpfh!!!!!!
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| Modest Tom in onsen |
What to do on a rainy day? Go for an onsen of course. There is a town just outside Sapporo called Jozankei which is full of hot springs - apparently it produces 8 tons of hot spring water a minute (strange unit to measure water in?). We found a special deal at the tourist office the other day offering return trip on a coach and a spa at a hotel of our choice for 1,800 Yen (half for Tom) so decided to go for it.
We wondered down to the rail station (also the bus station) got ourselves a picnic lunch for the coach (onigiri and sushi rolls) and stood in queue for the coach. It took a while to get out of the suburbs of Sapporo, but the streets were interesting enough (not the buildings they are the usual dull square buildings you see everywhere in Japan) but the signs, names of businesses and watching day to day life is interesting enough to keep us entertained. It took an hour to get to Jozankei which was nestled along a valley with steep, densely wooded mountains around - all covered in mist as it was still raining.
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| The boys had the onsen to themselves too! |
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| In the free foot bath |
We got off at the first stop and after a first false start we found a hotel to have a spa. Tom is now of an age where he should really be in the mens side of onsens (shame) so I left the boys to it and headed in myself. I was sort of nervous as this is the first time my operation scar was on view to anyone other than Matt and Tom and I was a little worried people may stare, but I needn't have worried and deep down I knew that. Also, the place was very empty - just a Chinese mother and her daughter - that was it. What to do? Well I couldn't make conversation, so I indulged myself in a very long shower and then headed to the baths for a long relax. There were 3 indoor baths and one outdoor bath on the ladies side. I headed straight for outside as that is always the best. It was a lovely view of the mountains and trees dripping in the rain. I did try the indoor baths, but they were way hotter and I was hot enough as it was. I did stay in them a while (apart from one which was monstrously hot), but decided to hang outside instead. At one point I heard a shout - I looked over the fence and saw Tom and Matt downstairs beneath me, so we had a shouting match - Matt couldn't hear me though so it was pretty much pointless!
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| Pretty valley with carbuncle buildings on it! |
I continued to relax until it was time to get out (me and Matt had agreed a rendez-vous time). Then a quick hair dry etc and I was ready to go. Just as I was about to leave a group of 3 Chinese looking ladies arrived. They were talking amongst themselves but then I heard one say something along the lines of "where are the showers?". I started doing sign language to explain where to go. Then they asked me in their best American accent how to take an onsen as this was their first time and they didn't know what to do. It's not often I can help someone out in Japan...I explained that they had to get naked in the changing rooms and then go through to the shower room where they need to have a shower before getting in the baths. They weren't impressed: "It's even worse than we expected". I told them that it is liberating to be naked in front of others where the others are completely accepting of you regardless of lumps, bumps etc etc. Not sure I convinced them. The main speaker wanted to take her big towel into the shower area, I told her that isn't really accepted and anywhere there is no-where to put a big towel and keep in dry in the area. She was going to have to take a deep breath and go for it. Turns out they were from Taiwan. I explained that I'm from the UK and our culture is not to be naked at all but that when in Japan I don't have a problem with it. I wonder how they got on. I guess it is harder if you are having to reveal all with people you know.
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| Suspension bridge in lovely valley |
I met up with Tom and Matt in the Reception. We went for a little walk around the town, which seemed to be a collection of massive carbuncular grey hotels in a pretty valley (typical Japan I'm afraid - I'm not sure they have planning regulations in this country. So many times we have gone somewhere beautiful only to find a huge, square, grey, Eastern block style concrete hotel in it - why can't they design nice pretty places that blend in better?). We found a park with a foot bath which we couldn't let pass and then we popped into a 'Convi' Store to get some drinks and snacks and then walked along the river to a rather lovely looking suspension bridge.
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| Loo with a view |
We walked back to the town and found a public toilet - Tom needed a wee so he went in. I know I do speak a lot about toilets on our trips to Japan, we are past the tiny urinals in female toilets now as Tom never goes in the ladies anymore. However, look at this for a public toilet: pretty much a urinal in full view of everyone who goes past - there was no door on the urinal - just the cubicle. This would never happen at home but is just a little quirk of Japan that I enjoy.
Then back, a quick loop of the town, including two souvenir stores which sold a little more than the usual sweets before getting the coach back to Sapporo again. A great use of a miserable and grey day. We had tea on the way home: Co Co Ichiban curry house - for a bowl of curry and fried stuff. Was a little spicier than we thought - Tom had trouble finishing his, but it tasted good.
Then back to the house for diary writing, photo processing etc.
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